Category Archives: fashion

21 Questions With… Victoria’s Secret Model Lindsay Ellingson

Lindsay Ellingson TheFashionSpot copy

Image: Courtesy

Model, co-founder of Wander Beauty and all-around quintessential California girl Lindsay Ellingson is best known for walking in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show seven years straight. She has also modeled for Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Proenza Schouler, Valentino and Christian Dior, among many others and graced the pages of American and international editions of Vogue as well as Allure and GQ. These days, the former dancer is focused on staying fit with ballet and yoga, her husband Sean Clayton, cockapoo Carly and her fast-growing beauty company, which is now stocked at Sephora and focuses on multipurpose products. We caught up with the supermodel to ask her our quickfire questions.

  1. My morning routine consists of… cuddling with my dog Carly and checking my emails.
  2. The last thing I googled was… how bad does the Clear + Brilliant laser treatment hurt?
  3. If my days had one extra hour… I’d do a sauna session at HigherDOSE every day.
  4. The best beauty advice I ever received was… how to instantly appear younger and fresh by applying a cream highlighter on the high points of your face.
  5. My desert island beauty product is… Wander Beauty’s award-winning Unlashed Volume and Curl Mascara. It delivers mega volume, definition and curl without weighing your lashes down or smudging.
  6. The best makeup artist tip I learned backstage was… in Japan, I learned how to fill in my brows with hair-like strokes for the most natural yet enhanced look.
  7. When I’m stressed… I do a 10-minute meditation using the Headspace app.
  8. When my self-confidence has taken a hit… I think of five things I’m grateful for or love about myself.
  9. My guilty pleasure is… Kettle Brand Buffalo Bleu flavored potato chips.
  10. My most memorable career highlight was… walking in my first Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show!
  11. When it comes to working out… I love Pilates, ballet and yoga — all great exercises for toning and lengthening.
  12. The one song I can’t get enough of right now is… Taylor Swift’s “Look What You Made Me Do.”
  13. If you looked at my desktop you’d see… well, my desk is also my dining table and there are beauty products everywhere!
  14. My most memorable travel experience was… driving on Hawaii’s Hana Highway with my husband, the most beautiful adventure with over 600 turns!
  15. I’m dying to splurge on… chunky sweaters and patent leather boots for fall.
  16. The thing I’m most looking forward to in 2018 is… my family vacation to Croatia!
  17. When I have a free night… I love hosting game night and tacos with my friends.
  18. If you look in my fridge you’d always find… LuliTonix blended juices, eye masks and Magnum chocolate bars.
  19. My most treasured possession is… my rose gold engagement ring…he did good!
  20. My biggest fashion regret is… wearing mom jeans in the 90s, although they would be worth a lot now!
  21. One thing I wish people knew about me is… I have a strange fear of touching velvet.

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These Booster Serums Will Supercharge Your Skin Care Products

If you’re familiar with double cleansing, bubble masks and cushion compacts, then you’re already aware of the many amazing Korean beauty products that have infiltrated the industry over the past few years. The latest K-beauty category everyone’s buzzing about is booster serums, a skin care wunderkind that many Western brands are now also incorporating into their product lines.

What are booster serums?

Booster serums are lightweight liquids that contain performance ingredients in high concentration. You can mix them with other skin care products, like moisturizer or sunscreen, or use them on their own before following up with the rest of your regimen. Think of booster serums as the ingredient that supercharges the products you already use.

Boosters are packaged in small volume bottles due to the fact that they’re concentrated, and because you only need one or two drops, the bottle can last a long time. Light in texture and watery, they are created to target different concerns, like increase hydration, brighten, tone, reduce wrinkles or soothe irritated skin. The goal of boosters is to prime and stabilize the skin’s barrier, allowing your other products to work more effectively and give us the healthy glow we all want.

How to use booster serums

You can opt to use boosters either on their own or mixed with another product. If you choose to use them on their own, work 1-3 drops (or more, per manufacturer’s instructions) into cleansed (and, if you wish, toned) face. Follow up with serum and moisturizer.

Another way is to mix 1-3 drops of booster with a moisturizer in the palm of your hand and apply the mixture after cleansing. You will notice that you will not need nearly as much moisturizer as you did prior to using a booster.

The beauty of booster serums is that they can improve the benefits of your creams or replace your usual toner or serum. If you are curious about giving this type of product a try, click through the slideshow above to discover some of the best booster serums available.

[ Next: The Best Face Serums for Every Skin Type — and Budget ]

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Sorry Louis Vuitton, Even Léa Seydoux Can’t Save Your Latest Jeff Koons Collaboration

Despite the critics (and our forum members’ disapproval), the instantly recognizable Louis Vuitton x Jeff Koons collaboration must have served the brand well, as the world-renowned artist and legendary French fashion label reunite for yet another collection. Now including the iconic works of Manet, Turner and Gauguin, actress and Vuitton brand ambassador Léa Seydoux replaces Alicia Vikander as the face of the collaboration. The team rejected the desert as the location this time around, opting for the studio with Léa reprising her role as the ultimate Louis Vuitton woman with effortless ease.

Louis Vuitton x Jeff Koons Handbags 2018 : Lea Seydoux

IMAGE: FASHIONGONEROGUE.COM

Love for Léa aside, it’s safe to assume that our forum members won’t be rushing to a Vuitton store anytime soon. “I can’t believe this Jeff Koons collaboration is continuing, it’s so ugly and the campaigns are nothing better. I feel sorry for Léa for having to participate in it,” wrote dodencebt straight away.

“Very cheap!” announced Nymphaea.

“Airport gift shop cheap,” an underwhelmed MissMagAddict echoed.

“Again? Why give him another run when the first range was so positively abominable. And this time around the campaign looks as cheap as the bags, especially with the false backdrop and unfortunate bangs. What a waste of Léa Sedoux,” fumed Benn98.

Also not willing to part with their money was GivenchyHomme. “It obviously didn’t sell the first time around. I doubt this attempt will do any better. It’s a very ugly line that should have never gone into production. A big mistake for LV,” he stated.

“Can’t believe this collaboration is still happening. Love Léa but even she couldn’t save this,” said an unforgiving mathiaskatz.

Apple chimed in, saying, “Her beauty is amazing but the bags are so ugly!”

“Since the last collection, I only saw one woman carrying it. And she’s a white middle-age lady. I mean at least if you make it tacky, make it a successful one. All the collabs during Marc Jacobs were wild and most-wanted,” voiced TaylorBinque.

Louis Vuitton x Jeff Koons Handbags 2018 : Lea Seydoux

IMAGE: FASHIONGONEROGUE.COM

A success or a total flop? Let us know how you feel toward the collaboration/campaign here.

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10 Bizarre Beauty Products You Definitely Won’t Find at Sephora

We’re not sure if you’ve noticed, but beauty has become pretty profitable and innovative lately. With the crazy success of celebrity collaborations, YouTube vloggers and ever-expanding makeup department stores, brands and entrepreneurs are looking to capture more and more consumer dollars. Needless to say, in the race to fill the market with interesting and trendy products, things are starting to get, well, a bit weird.

Just when you thought the last few stretches of a Sephora checkout line couldn’t get any weirder with products like Poo-Pourri, Amazon has now got you covered with eyebrow stamps and lip suction cups (hey, collagen is expensive, OK?). And better yet, are your breasts fresh? What do we mean by that? Exactly. Better try Fresh Breasts and get to the bottom of this. Here, 10 crazy beauty products to try if you dare.

[ Next: Bird Saliva Cream and Other Bizarre Beauty Products that Really Work ]

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How to Steam Your Face for Clear, Hydrated Skin

woman showing how to steam your face using a towel and bowl of hot water

At-home facial steaming is a beneficial step in any skin care regime; Image: Getty

We’re familiar with how a steamy shower can soothe a stressed-out mind or overworked body. Steam can also be an effective (and free!) decongestant. And when used as part of a beauty routine, facial steaming also help detoxify skin by removing dead cells and impurities, leaving it with a healthy, dewy glow.

Face steaming is not a new concept. According to Leigh Casbourne, brand and product trainer for Lush Cosmetics North America, steaming and steam baths have existed since ancient Greece. Despite the advances in beauty (see sheet masks and bubbling face masks), facial steaming is still worth including in your skin care routine. If you’re curious about how to steam your face, there are a number of options including professional treatments, facial steaming devices and at-home kits. At-home kits usually contain dried herbs and flowers, but even using a plain bowl of steamy water and a towel will work.

No matter the option, there are many benefits to facial steaming. It increases hydration, detoxifies, helps with product absorbency, boosts radiance and more. Not to mention that it often helps clear the mind as well as the pores. Medical esthetician Tiffany Andersen recommends facial steaming for all skin types, especially those struggling with acne because the steam helps deep clean skin and release built-up sebum and debris.

Emily Cunningham, co-founder of True Moringa, cautions about getting too close to the steamer or overdoing it because too much heat can damage skin, especially sensitive skin and conditions like rosacea. Prior to a DIY treatment, she advises consulting a professional dermatologist or esthetician. Try to limit facial steaming sessions to once or twice a week. Katherine Tomasso, Yon-Ka Paris national director of education, warns that steaming your face too often can weaken skin’s capillaries leading to damage and dehydration. Try not to doze off during the steam, either, as a few minutes are often all that is needed.

Prior to a DIY facial steaming treatment, Tomasso suggests applying a soft exfoliating and hydrating treatment, such as a gommage, to aid the facial steaming’s exfoliating properties. After treatment, mask fans can take advantage of the steam’s effects by applying a face mask or serum.

Ready to get steamy? Scroll through the gallery to see facial steaming products.

Facial Steaming: How to Steam Your Face for Clear, Hydrated Skin

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Found: 25 of Fall’s Most Comfortable (and Stylish) Flat Boots

Updating your fall boot selection is hard work. After all, these (often leather) numbers usually require a serious monetary commitment. And when we shell out the big bucks, we expect style, comfort and durability in return. In a perfect world, all boots would be as timeless as that moment when we glance at their price tag.

Of course, we can’t ask fashion’s fickle palate to stop evolving — nor would we want it to. And most boots, unfortunately, don’t come heeled with warranties. When it comes to comfort, however, there is an easy way of weeding out the less-than-cozy contenders: Skip the heels.

Even without literally upping your flat boots’ sex appeal, you’ve still got a ton of shapes, styles and fabrics to choose from — all of which look pretty damn good regardless of height. Take the first step (if you will) toward a chic yet cozy seasonal shoe closet. Click through the slideshow above to shop 23 of the season’s most comfortable and stylish flat boots.

[ Next: The 11 Most Comfortable Heel Brands on the Planet ]

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Bella Hadid, Sofia Richie and More Celebs Rocking This Season’s It Haircut: the Lob

A post shared by Sofia Richie (@sofiarichie) on Aug 10, 2017 at 7:06am PDT

There’s no arguing it: bobs are the most talked-about hairstyle of 2017. (Buzz cuts, you fought well.) By our calculations, the most recent bob resurgence began this past February. Around that time, Cara Taylor opened Alexander Wang’s Fall 2017 runway sporting a blunt, freshly chopped mane and it seemed as if, in that moment, the age-old bob cut was reborn. It girls and street style stars were quick to embrace the abbreviated hairstyle. Among them Bella Hadid, who debuted a long bob cut — and shiny new Alexander Wang catsuit — on the steps of the 2017 Met Gala. (She’s since gone even shorter.)

Obviously, once Bella does something, the fashion world follows suit, but it’s not just the supermodel’s co-sign that’s given the trend wings. Bobs are an easy sell: they’re incredibly easy to maintain, they’re surprisingly versatile (especially in lob form) and for reasons we’ll get into in a second, they exude confidence.

As Fashionista contributor Sara Idacavage explains in her deep dive into bob history: “On a subconscious level, [the bob haircut] still serves as an indicator of a woman’s choice to break from tradition. While cropped hair has been worn by women across the globe for thousands of years, beauty ideals for women throughout the majority of Western history have usually included long hair (a standard that’s held far more constant than those ascribed to ‘ideal’ body types).” It’s no surprise that, in a year that’s made women acutely aware of socially sanctioned gender injustices, so many have embraced the DGAF-about-dated-beauty-ideals-but-still-want-to-have-some-hair hairstyle.

Thinking of taking the bob plunge? You’ll be in good company. Scroll through the gallery below to see which celebs are currently rocking long bob cuts (the chop’s more wearable form) and pick up some styling tips along the way.

[ Next: 45 Gorgeous Long Bobs that Will Make You Want to Go for the Chop ]

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90s Hair Is Back, According to the Spring Runways

The fashion world loves few things more than a retro revival; it feels like the industry single-handedly keeps the phrase “what goes around comes around” in business. Every season we see some decade return for an encore on the runways in some form, be it fashion or beauty, and this season, 90s hairstyles are alive and well.

Sure, 90s redux isn’t exclusive to Spring 2018. The grunge-era resurgence has been going strong for several seasons now, permeating everything from our closets (hello, mom jeans) to our makeup drawers (matte lipstick, anyone?). But for the designer set, it would appear that isn’t quite enough. No, on the catwalks for Spring 2018 we saw a plethora of 90s hairstyles we recognized from our youth, confirming once again that the decade of Nirvana, Kate Moss and Friends will never die. Not if the fashion industry has anything to say about it, anyway.

So, will we be reliving our old styles from hair days gone by? Unclear. If you’re not a Gen X’er — or even a Gen Y’er — this nostalgic moment in beauty may actually feel new and fresh. But for those who lived through it the first time around, 90s hair may feel, well, best left in the 90s. Either way, we’re having fun strolling down memory lane. Check out the slideshow above and join us, won’t you?

[ Next: 5 Hair Trends We’re Obsessed With From the Spring 2018 Runways ]

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Natasha Poly Appears ‘Raw and Beautiful’ on the Vogue Netherlands November Cover

Our forum members are still shaking their heads over Vogue Turkey‘s horrific October cover featuring Natasha Poly. Thankfully, we have a gorgeous new cover to look at from the Russian bombshell as she makes herVogue Netherlands debut for November 2017. Photographed at her home along the Amstel river in Amsterdam, Natasha looks effortlessly natural and perfectly undone in the crisp cover image captured by Alique.

Vogue Netherlands November 2017 : Natasha Poly by Alique

IMAGE: VOGUE.NL

Members of our forums were relieved to see Natasha looking like herself again. “Wow, I actually love this! I really like the effect of the rain on the cover. Natasha looks raw and beautiful (I also love the intensity in her eyes) and the sweater/hat combo works. Bravo, Vogue Netherlands!” cheered bluestar the moment the cover dropped.

“I love this, and I think Alique is such a strong photographer. This is light years better than her Vogue Turkey cover,” championed marsnoop2.

“This is so beautiful,” said a delighted Bruce7Lee.

Also liking what they saw was Lola701: “A beauty is a beauty and as I’ve said before, Natasha is always a good idea. Marvelous cover. Raw and fantastic. She is glamorous no matter what!”

However, not everyone was buying it. “Whoa, after VT, another disaster cover for Poly! What is going on! This just doesn’t work for me, she almost looks like Diane Kruger on a bad day, here!” exclaimed Miss Dalloway.

“Indeed another disaster, she looks harsh and unfocused,” Nymphaea echoed.

“Terrible! I’m actually surprised because September aside, Dutch Vogue has been doing good shots. Get what they were going for but the execution failed. And the drop on her chin looks more gross than raw and natural,” slammed Benn98.

Are you feeling it? Await more from Natasha’s cover story and join the conversation here.

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Diversity Report: Landmark Gains for Nonwhite, Transgender and Plus-Size Models on the Spring 2018 Runways

Dries Van Noten Runway Spring 2018

Dries Van Noten Runway Spring 2018; Image: Imaxtree

At the close of the Spring 2018 season, Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour observed that diversity on the runways finally felt like the rule, not the exception: “It was a giant step forward and I think that those who have spoken up in the past publicly should really be given a lot of credit. And I hope that those that did not follow suit will now recognize that fashion has a responsibility to be in step with the times and not persist in portraying a one-note way of looking at women.”

In a post-New York Fashion Week interview with Paper magazine, casting director James Scully — one of those who has often “spoken up” publicly regarding diversity (or lack thereof) on the runways — echoed Wintour’s remarks: “I have to say in all the years I’ve been in this business, it was definitely the most diverse on every level. Besides size and color and age, there was a big showing of trans girls this season and Teddy Quinlivan coming out … I don’t even know what to say, I’m so surprised at how diverse it was.”

Wintour and Scully are right: times are unquestionably changing. In Spring 2018, race, age, body and transgender representation on the runways reached an all-time high. It’s important not to exaggerate the level of progress, however. There’s still much work to be done. See below.

RACE

Spring 2018 was the most racially diverse runway season in recent history. After examining 266 major shows and tallying 8,258 runway appearances from New York, London, Paris and Milan, we found that, for all four cities combined, 69.8 percent of castings were white and 30.2 percent were women of color. Although this figure is far from where it needs to be, it is a slight (2.3 point) improvement over Fall 2017, when nonwhite models accounted for 27.9 percent of castings. (For reference, Spring 2017 and Fall 2016’s runways were 25.4 and 24.7 percent nonwhite, respectively.)

graph showing the percentage of models of color on the runways from 2015 to 2018

This marks the first time the combined runways have featured over 30 percent models of color. Of course, this was largely due to improvements made in New York, which, at 36.9 percent models of color, was the most racially diverse of the four fashion capitals. As we reported last month, New York Fashion Week broke its own racial diversity record from Fall 2016 of 31.9 percent models of color. Not only that, for the first time, every runway or presentation we examined featured at least two models of color. (Fall 2017 was the first wherein every runway featured at least one model of color.)

Happily, New York wasn’t the only city to hit this diversity landmark. Overseas, every London show we tracked also had at least two models of color. For the second season running, London had the second highest presence of nonwhite models at 31 percent (a modest 2.6 point improvement over Fall 2017, but still a record high for the city).

Graph showing percentage of models of color for New York, London, Milan and Paris runways, 2015-2018

Paris and Milan also saw more nonwhite model castings than ever before at 27 percent and 24.7 percent, respectively. Those were marginal gains, however. Paris’ 27 percent was preceded by 25.9 percent in Fall 2017 and 24.1 percent in Spring 2017. Milan, which consistently lags well behind the rest — it’s the only city wherein models of color still account for less than one-fourth of castings — showed the least improvement. In Fall 2017, models of color accounted for 23.8 percent of all Milan catwalkers, in Spring 2017, 20.9 percent. Nonetheless, it’s encouraging that Milan and Paris have now seen steady improvements season over season since Spring 2015.

PLUS-SIZE

Jocelyn Corona at Christian Siriano Spring 2018.

Jocelyn Corona at Christian Siriano Spring 2018; Image: Imaxtree

Spring 2018 was a banner season for body diversity. A record 93 plus-size models walked the runways, up from 30 last season and 16 in Spring 2017. That said, curve models are still incredibly underrepresented on the runways, especially in Europe.

To wit: plus-size models made up only 1.13 percent of castings across all four cities. What’s more, 90 of the 93 bookings took place in New York and of those, a majority (56) were at Addition Elle and Torrid, two companies that only sell clothing above a size 10. Longtime diversity champions Christian Siriano and Chromat accounted for the bulk of the 34 remaining New York castings. (Siriano had 10, Chromat 11.)

Still, there were signs of hope. Spring 2018 offered opportunities for multiple talents to shine, many of them at high-profile shows. Eckhaus Latta, hailed as one of New York Fashion Week’s top collections, saw Paloma Elsesser’s runway debut. For the second season running, Michael Kors and Prabal Gurung cast two plus-size models apiece. Ashley Graham and Sabina Karlsson walked at Kors; Graham and Candice Huffine at Gurung. Natalie Nootenboom joined megastars Gigi and Bella Hadid at Anna Sui.

total plus-size, transgender and over-50 models on the runways, 2016-2018

As for the European shows, two plus-size models walked at Paris Fashion Week, one in London. The Milan collections featured not a single curve model. (Though we applaud the steps Europe-based fashion conglomerates Kering and LVMH, which collectively own Gucci, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior, took to present a healthier body ideal by banning models below a U.S. size 2 from the runways, the charter was not intended to promote the casting of plus-size models.)

In London, Teatum Jones’ notably diverse lineup included plus-size model Ali Tate and a handful of disabled models, among them amputee Vicky Balch. (Fitting, as the show was dedicated to British Paralympic dressage rider and 11-time gold medalist Natasha Baker.)

In Paris, “inbetweenie” models (who fall right in the middle of the size spectrum and constitute a particularly underrepresented group) had a high-fashion moment at Alexander McQueen. Newcomers Eline Lykke (a former fisherman) and Betsy Teske (a law student in Amsterdam) joined It girls Jean Campbell and Lexi Boling on the runway. According to casting director Jess Hallett, McQueen’s relatively inclusive runway pointed to the show’s greater theme: “sisterhood and celebrating femininity.”

It’s also worth noting that the season’s most-booked plus-size model was a woman of color (Jocelyn Corona with four shows) and that, for the first time in recent memory, an over-50 plus-size model walked at New York Fashion Week (54-year-old Emme at Chromat). Progress may be slow — and mainly confined to New York — but it’s palpable.

TRANSGENDER/NON-BINARY

Teddy Quinlivan backstage at Dries Van Noten Spring 2018.

Teddy Quinlivan backstage at Dries Van Noten Spring 2018; Image: Imaxtree

Transgender visibility saw a significant lift, too. For Spring 2018, there were 45 transgender women castings and 4 non-binary model appearances across 47 (for the most part, major) runways. That’s by far the largest figure we’ve seen since we first started tallying the numbers in 2015. By comparison, Fall 2017 saw only 12 such castings, confined to 5 — again, big-name — shows. The prior season had only 10 transgender model appearances, the season before that 8.

Whereas all 12 of Fall 2017’s transgender and non-binary model appearances occurred in New York, Spring 2018 saw 10 trans and non-binary castings in Paris, 7 in Milan and 1 in London.

In recent times, it has become (slightly) easier for those who identify as transgender, non-binary or gender nonconforming to break into the fashion industry thanks to increasingly mainstream advocacy on the part of activists like Hari Nef, Laverne Cox and Andreja Pejic. Spring 2018’s massive uptick in transgender and non-binary castings shouldn’t be attributed to a sudden leveling of the playing field, though. Rather, it’s a testament to the success of model Teddy Quinlivan, discovered by Louis Vuitton creative director Nicolas Ghesquière back in 2015.

After two years of strutting just about every major catwalk and fronting campaigns for Oscar de la Renta, Michael Kors and more, Quinlivan publicly revealed her transgender identity in a September 13 interview with CNN Style. “There are not a lot of openly trans people in media, and I think it’s really important to show people that not only am I trans, I’m (also) very successful and good at what I do,” stated the model. Indeed, she is. The 23-year-old accounted for over half (27) of the season’s transgender model castings, including all those that took place in Milan and all but one in Paris. It’s heartening to see that Quinlivan’s honesty did not diminish her prospects.

Hunter Schafer at Versus Versace.

Hunter Schafer at Versus Versace; Image: Imaxtree

Quinlivan helped boost Spring 2018’s percentage of transgender women and non-binary model appearances to 0.59, a record high. Of the European shows we examined*, only two featured a transgender woman or non-binary model that wasn’t Quinlivan: transgender model Hunter Schafer walked at Versus Versace in London and non-binary model Jude Karda at Anrealage in Paris.

New York, on the other hand, had a fair share of non-Quinlivan transgender (17) and non-binary (3) castings, including Stav Strashko at Tome, Dara Allen at Marc Jacobs, Schafer at Hood By Air and R13, Massima Lei at Coach 1941 and Sies Marjan and Leyna Bloom, Aurel Haize Odogbo, Carmen Carrera, Maya Monès and Geena Rocero at Chromat.

Additionally, thanks to the aforementioned New York designers, people of color constituted 10 of the 49 transgender and non-binary castings and a transgender, nonwhite model over 50 (Sophia Lamar) walked in one of the most talked-about shows of the month, Helmut Lang. Thus, though a tall, white, willowy, cisgender-presenting model accounted for the majority of gender-inclusive castings, it’s clear the industry is not only moving beyond exclusion, it’s moving beyond tokenism. (Again, at least in New York.)

*Transgender model Talulah-Eve Brown walked for London-based label Giles Deacon, which was not examined for this report.

AGE

Plus-size supermodel Emme at Chromat Spring 2018.

Plus-size supermodel Emme at Chromat Spring 2018; Image: Imaxtree

Women in their 50s, 60s and upward were the only group that didn’t experience a drastic bump in representation. Still, the category showed solid improvement. Last season, 21 models over the age of 50 walked the runways of New York, London, Milan and Paris. For Spring 2018, that figure rose to 27 — an underwhelming 0.33 percent of the castings we considered, but still an all-time high.

One could argue that mature models benefited from the most organic growth in representation. No exclusively over-50 shows bolstered their numbers (L’Oréal Paris’ Insta-friendly Champs-Élysées outing, where no Spring 2018 line debuted, was not included in this report) and all castings were deliberate, not inadvertent (which was not the case in the transgender/non-binary category).

Additionally — and refreshingly — the fashion world’s emphasis on age-inclusiveness extended into Europe. For Spring 2018, every fashion capital saw at least 3 over-50 model castings. Yet again, New York came out on top with 10 mature model appearances, including Coco Mitchell at Tome, Susan Cianciolo at Eckhaus Latta, Sophia Lamar at Helmut Lang and Emme at Chromat.

Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen join Donatella Versace for the Versace finale.

Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen join Donatella Versace for the Versace finale; Image: Imaxtree

Next came Milan and Paris with 7 over-50 castings apiece (for reference, Milan had 6 last season, Paris just 2). At Milan Fashion Week, industry vets Cordula Reyer, Simonetta Gianfelici and Benedetta Barzini hit the runway for Arthur Arbesser, Antonio Marras and Daniela Gregis, respectively. Versace’s epic supermodel reunion featured one gold lamé-clad quinquagenarian, the inimitable Cindy Crawford. Chez Paris, throwback models (among them Axelle Doué, Charlotte Flossault and Mino Sassy) helped Yang Li, Uma Wang, Issey Miyake and Balenciaga highlight the versatility of their clothes.

London, home to the most mature model appearances of Fall 2017 (7), fell to the bottom of the pile this season with just 3. Only two U.K. designers — Roland Mouret and Natasha Zinko — showed clothes on women over 50, notably Cecilia Chancellor and Luna De Casanova. Simone Rocha and Gareth Pugh: What gives?

MOST AND LEAST DIVERSE SHOWS

Tome Spring 2018

Diversity at Tome Spring 2018; Image: Imaxtree

As far as individual brands go, the most racially inclusive shows came from Kenzo, Sophia Webster, Ashish, Chromat and Tome (in that order). Note that no Milan-based brands made the top five.

Back in June, Kenzo designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim closed out Paris Men’s Fashion Week with a floral and fuzzy sock-filled Spring 2018 collection shown on an all-Asian cast. “We felt like it would be really beautiful and poetic to cast a full Asian cast and celebrate the heritage of the brand,” wrote the design duo on Instagram. For their second “La Collection Memento,” shown during Paris Fashion Week proper, Leon and Lim again hired a predominantly (14 out of 18, or 78 percent) nonwhite cast — along with a traditional Japanese theater group. Whichever calendar you’re going by, theirs was the most racially diverse show of the season.

British accessories designer and newly inked Puma collaborator Sophia Webster came in second, hiring 6 out of 8 (75 percent) models of color to sit among Alice in Wonderland-style flowers and branches. London-based Delhi-born designer Ashish Gupta tied with Webster. His “celestial, ethereal, sad” (but reliably sequin-filled) collection featured 12 out of 16 (75 percent) models of color.

Next came Chromat, which, in addition to being the third-most racially diverse Spring 2018 show (with 72 percent nonwhite models), featured 5 transgender models, 1 non-binary model and 11 plus-size models (one of them over 50), making it the most inclusive runway of the season.

Tami Williams at Marc Jacobs Spring 2018

Tami Williams at Marc Jacobs Spring 2018; Image: Imaxtree

Tome, another New York-based brand, sent out 70 percent models of color along with 1 transgender model (Stav Strashko), 3 women over 50 and 2 plus-size women. “Tome is an everywoman brand, meaning it’s a collection that speaks to women of all ages, shapes and ethnicities. We wanted to make sure that was reflected on the runway, and in the case of our Spring 2018 presentation, the stage,” designers Ramon Martin and Ryan Lobo told theFashionSpot. Thanks to their directional casting, Tome was the fourth-most multicultural show of the season and one of the most inclusive overall.

Historically, New York has the best diversity record of the four cities and is typically home to most — if not all — of the season’s most diverse shows, so it’s refreshing to see Paris and London gaining ground (even if they were helped along by Kanye West’s abstention). Still, New York hosted all of Spring 2018’s most size-, gender- and age-inclusive collections: Torrid, Helmut Lang, Marc Jacobs, Tracy Reese, Christian Siriano, Desigual, Tome and Chromat.

While the aforementioned brands were defined by their diverse lineups, others, to borrow Wintour’s words, persisted “in portraying a one-note way of looking at women.” Unsurprisingly, many of these designers hailed from Milan, among them Mila Schön, Laura Biagiotti and Giorgio Armani, which included only 3, 4 and 8 percent nonwhite models, respectively.

Four brands — Les Copains, Anrealage, Comme des Garçons and Undercover — inexcusably featured no models of color. Both Comme des Garçons and Undercover are repeat offenders. Given Comme head Rei Kawakubo’s elite industry status (she’s one of the few living designers to have been honored with a Met Costume Institute retrospective) and the fact that she is a woman of color, her exclusionary casting practices are particularly egregious.

TOP MODELS

top models on the spring 2018 runways

Of the 11 models who racked up the most runway appearances this season, four were women of color: indigenous Australian model Charlee Fraser, Chinese model He Cong, Brazilian model Aira Ferreira and Korean model Yoon Young Bae.

Fraser (the most in-demand model at New York Fashion Week) shared the top spot with McKenna Hellam — each booked 50 major shows. Léa Julian came in second with 47 runway appearances. Third place went to Cara Taylor with 41 castings, followed closely by Emm Arruda with 40 and Cong with 39. Kiki Willems and Leah Rodl shared sixth place, walking 37 runways apiece. Ferreira, Lex Herl and Bae rounded out the list with 35 runway credits each. In the end, no transgender, plus-size or over-50 models made the top 11.

Ashish Spring 2018

Ashish Spring 2018; Image: Imaxtree

CHANGE IS IN THE AIR

Outside of New York, no city has seen a steady increase in over-50 model castings. The number of European plus-size castings has barely improved since Spring 2016 (this season, it stagnated). Even in London, where racial diversity on the runways was more prevalent than ever, model Leomie Anderson alleged that she’d been dropped from a show on the basis of her skin tone.

But the industry is headed in the right direction. It’s telling that Teddy Quinlivan felt comfortable coming out. It’s telling that the number of plus-size castings tripled, if only in New York. “I don’t think our work is done, but what I think is again interesting is having a younger blood in this business has changed the way things are seen,” James Scully told Paper. “I don’t think this season was more diverse because everyone was saying ‘let’s make it more diverse,’ I think it was because it was. I don’t see the pendulum swinging back because there was a reason why this happened in the first place. Fashion is represented by a lot of different people and now that they’re in the door, they’re going to keep that door open.”

Still, it can’t hurt to say it. Designers, casting directors: the Spring 2018 season was impressive, but let’s make Fall 2018 more diverse.

Additional reporting by Mark E.

Only women and non-binary models are included in this data. Models of color are categorized as those who are nonwhite or of mixed backgrounds. Fall 2017 collections that showed during the Spring 2018 season are included in this report.

The post Diversity Report: Landmark Gains for Nonwhite, Transgender and Plus-Size Models on the Spring 2018 Runways appeared first on theFashionSpot.

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